Hiking the Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route – Part 1

It started with a late night text message to my Dad.

Can you take 2 months off next summer? I have an idea…

He replied and I promptly forgot to respond.

The next day I got back to him with my wild idea. Did he want to hike the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage with me? He said he needed to check with his wife and a few days later we had the approval from Kathy that Dad could indeed join me for a trek across Europe. And with that, the planning started.

In 2017 I did a fairly fast Camino hike along the French Way to Finisterre that averaged just under 30 miles a day. For this Father-Son trek I knew we wanted something a bit more laid back and enjoyable. I researched a couple of routes and based on our Europe schedule and projected hiking pace the Portuguese Route from Porto to Santiago seemed to be perfect.

Dad spent the next few months training in Prescott, Arizona while I hopped around the world, strengthening my hiking legs with a summer of trail running in Bulgaria. In midsummer my brother Tyler took a sabbatical from work and with ample free time, and a couple of persuasive phone calls, we talked him into joining our pilgrimage. And then there were three.

Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route Film

For anyone interested in our Portuguese Route pilgrimage and more inclined to watch the journey than read about it this film covers our hike from Porto to Santiago de Compostela.

DAY 0 – Porto, Portugal

At the end of August the three of us descended on Porto and spent several days shaking off the jet lag by acclimatizing our legs on the steep hills around the city by the river.

A highlight of Porto was getting to hang out with a friend I’d met during my first international digital nomad trip back in 2016. Lucas was working in a hostel in Baños, Ecuador when I stopped in for a few days. We’d stayed connected through social media but I hadn’t seen him since then and it was a nice surprise that he was living in Porto and working as a tour guide.

Our final task in Porto was to ship everything ahead that we didn’t need during the hike. We dropped off our bags with Tuitrans to be transferred to Santiago where we would pick them up once our pilgrimage was done. With only our hiking essentials left we spent one last night in Porto, ready to set out the next day.

DAY 1 – Porto to Vilar do Pinheiro

On the morning of September 4th we checked out of our apartment and walked toward the Porto Cathedral in search of our first scallop shell trail marker. As the sun rose we meandered through city streets and stopped after 2 miles for coffee and a snack. The day turned hot and we stuck to the shaded side of streets along the Central Route. During our lunch stop we checked Google Maps and the Buen Camino app for potential accommodations. There weren’t many albergues in this stretch so we settled on a 3 bed hotel room through Booking.com and walked a few more miles across concrete and cobblestones to arrive just as it started to rain.

After cleaning up we ventured off in the small village to find dinner. A slight oversight on my part, I totally forgot that in this part of the world it is virtually impossible to find food between the hours of 3 and 7 PM, right around the time that three hungry and tired hikers were ready to eat before retiring early to sleep. With nothing available in the village we called an Uber and rode to a nearby larger town and sat in a restaurant that wasn’t actually open yet but was willing to serve us a limited menu.

Back at our hotel with full bellies and sink laundry hung out to dry we sat by the pool until another rainstorm sent us indoors. We’d covered 13.1 miles, a bit more then planned, but we hoped to have better luck finding more accommodation options in the coming days. Other than sore legs and tired feet no one had any sharp pain, so day one was a definite success.

DAY 2 – Vilar do Pinheiro To Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão

We slept for more than 9 hours and woke for coffee and a continental breakfast before setting out. After following the spur trail back to the main Central Route we walked through narrow cobblestone roads while cars and trucks wizzed by a little too close for comfort. We took our time, stopped in snack shops for coffee, pizza, and sandwiches and collected a few more stamps in our Camino passport books.

During a midmorning rest we decided to try an albergue for the night and set off through the rolling landscape past ornately tiled churches. We stopped for an afternoon drink at a hilltop cafe then ate lunch in the small village before checking into the albergue just after 2 PM, the first pilgrims of the day.

Albergues are hostels with bunkrooms and communal areas that are reserved for pilgrims. I’d stayed in many during my first Camino hike but wondered how difficult it might be to get 3 bunks along a busy Portuguese Route. The Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão was a beautiful old monastery and being first in we had our pick of beds. After showers, sink laundry, and repacking we spent a nice evening sharing dinner and talking with a few other pilgrims who wandered in for the night.

DAY 3 – Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão to Rates

The next morning started with a beautiful sunrise view from the bunkroom and after coffee and breakfast we donned our packs and started walking. It had been a nice albergue experience but we all decided that the stuffy room, rock hard rubber covered beds, and snoring neighbors were not ideal. We wouldn’t totally avoid future albergues, but we agreed to check Booking.com first.

We hiked out of town along cobblestone paths through thick eucalyptus groves. After navigating another city during morning traffic we escaped into the woods and turned a corner to a fantastic view of the Ponte D. Zameiro bridge which our trail crossed over.

We climbed away from the river valley, stopped for a coffee in a very small village, and walked on to Arcos, a potential destination for the day. At a small cafe we sat outside in the shade sipping cold beers and eating crispy chicken sandwiches. A pilgrim from Holland sat with us for a rest and then Simon, a friend we met at the albergue the previous evening joined us for a round of drinks.

Arcos was pretty tiny and having plenty of daylight left we decided to hike a little further on. We secured accommodations online and packed up to leave. Inside while Tyler was paying the bill a group of older women from the village sat in the corner talking. The restaurant owner chuckled and said in English “The ladies want to feel your beard”. Tyler said okay and one woman came over to do just that, followed by joyful laughter.

After Tyler my beard was next, and Simon having come in to pay his bill followed me for the trifecta. Not wanting Dad to miss out we called him inside and when he entered the women shrilled at his bushy white beard. The lady brushed his scruff and closed the ceremony by planting a big kiss on each of Dad’s cheeks.

With renewed energy we set off north, walked across sprawling fields of corn, dodged tractors, and gained a 4th hiking partner when a stray dog joined us for the last few kilometers into town. In Rates we checked into our 2 bedroom apartment, cleaned up, shopped for food and wine, and relaxed on our patio until the sun set and we retreated to sleep.

DAY 4 – Rates to Barcelos

The route for day 4 would be more hilly so we left early under cloudy skies which made for picturesque scenes and cooler temps. We hiked through the countryside, in and out of forests and across fields, past a unique Camino themed art installation, and then we all ran out of water. Luckily it wasn’t baking hot out but it was a good reminder to resupply a bit more often.

As we walked closer to Barcelos the traffic grew busy. The dirt trail changed to roads, then to highways, and by late morning we were descending into the valley through fancy neighborhoods and city amenities. Just beyond the sign for 199 kilometers (123.6 miles) to Santiago we stopped for quick snacks and decided to wait until reaching town to find lunch.

In Barcelos we walked through the bustling streets, crossed a large stone bridge, and found our way to the hotel room we’d booked. The city had lots of albergues but we decided to book a room with 3 beds which was a good idea because other pilgrims were crisscrossing the city looking for open bunks in various albergues. We were happy to walk directly to our destination, unpack, cleanup, and relax.

For lunch we indulged at a gourmet burger joint, explored town, rested in the room, and by evening headed out for sunset drinks. We ran into a couple of pilgrims from Germany we’d been leapfrogging with all day and they joined our table for evening drinks. We found a fancy Thai restaurant for dinner and had one of the most expensive meals of the Camino, but it was delicious! Back in the room we hung our damp clothes near the AC and hoped they would be dry by morning.

DAY 5 – Barcelos to Balugães

We woke early to dry clothes and a beautiful sunrise. With no breakfast at the hotel we were out the door by 7:30 AM and walked through sleepy city streets just starting to stir. Today would bring our first real sustained climb of the route so 2 miles in we stopped and ordered cafe americanos and ham cheese toasties to boost our energy. As we pushed our way onward and upward we met other hikers, including a British couple and a group of chatty Dutch women.

Near the crest of the climb we stopped in a roadside cafe for cold drinks and snacks and ran into the British couple. They were getting ready to pay and needed 20 cents, which I had in my hand, so I tried to give it to him. Surprised by the offer the gentleman said no thank you and then promptly ordered the Clemens clan a round of drinks on his tab, some pretty nice trail magic!

A few minutes later while we were resting our legs the Dutch ladies sat at the table next to us. As we talked they said they were all friends from home hiking together and their family told them to be safe and stay away from strange men along the way, so naturally they wanted to get a picture with three strange bearded pilgrims. The trail was getting busier and it was fun to connect with more hikers each day.

Not long after our rest stop we crested the climb and dropped down into a beautiful valley walking through villages and vineyards. Just after midday while sweating through a sun soaked stretch we reached an old stone bridge next to a cool pond. Many pilgrims were lounging in the grass beside the swimming hole and several were taking advantage of a platform, jumping in for a refreshing dip. While the water looked enticing we pushed on, knowing that if we wanted to get lunch before all the restaurants shuttered for afternoon siestas we needed to find a town soon.

The last hour was hot and exposed but we made it to Balugães just in time to grab food at a BBQ chicken joint before they closed. Since staying in the spartan albergue we’d been slowly upgrading our accommodations and this was no different. We checked into our quite fancy hotel which was really a 2+ bedroom apartment in an old stone building beautifully decorated with ornate antiques. We definitely didn’t feel like dirtbags.

I caught up on work and photo edits while Dad lounged in the hotel’s vineyard. We walked to the other local restaurant for dinner then checked the maps. We’d been hearing about a popular folk festival starting the next day in Ponte de Lima and everyone said finding albergues or hotels near town would be difficult and expensive. It wasn’t ideal, but judging our pace and distance to other towns it seemed like our only option, so we booked an exorbitantly priced small room in the heart of the city and looked forward to experiencing the festival.

DAY 6 – Balugães to Ponte de Lima

In the morning the hotel served a great breakfast and with stomachs satisfied we hit the trail. The route seemed busier with more pilgrims as we descended into another valley through old dense forest paths. Throughout the morning the sky threatened rain showers but mostly just spit sprinkles.

After a snack stop in a cafe behind a beautiful old church we pressed on through a wide valley along farm roads and for long stretches didn’t see a single vehicle. As we approached Ponte de Lima the sun won out and it turned hot and humid. The path stayed quiet and we savored the solitude, it was definitely the calm before the festival storm.

Walking into town was a sensory overload with pop-up campgrounds, street vendors, surround sound blasting music, and people everywhere. We navigated through the throngs of festival goers and found our hotel, a tiny room crammed with 3 beds and two shared bathrooms down the hall. We’d paid double the price of the luxury 2 bedroom hotel the previous night and even more than what I often pay for a month’s rent in Southeast Asia, but Feiras Novas was said to be the largest folk festival in Portugal so we figured it was worth the investment.

After showers Tyler and Dad ventured out to see what it was all about and I walked down the street to a laundromat to properly wash our hiking clothes. I ate a quick Big Mac from McD’s, dropped our clean clothes in the room, and caught up with them just as a parade was kicking off. There were floats with groups in traditional dress handing out regional foods, bands with drummers and accordions, and groups of men throwing clay pots through the air, eventually missing a catch and sending the ceramics crashing across the concrete to loud cheers from the audience.

After dinner at a busy outdoor restaurant Dad headed back to the hotel to try to sleep through the sounds of the all night party. Tyler and I stayed out until after midnight wandering the city streets, listening to impromptu singalongs, and taking in the unique festive vibes.

DAY 7 – Ponte de Lima to Labruja

In the morning we woke to fireworks at dawn, hoisted our packs, and wove our way through streets littered with party debris and past sporadic groups still carrying on the all night fiesta. Crossing the bridge the trail turned cool and quiet and after 2 miles we stopped for a breakfast omelette and coffee. The stretch north of Ponte de Lima would be the biggest and longest climb of the hike and with no accommodations near the summit we decided to split it into 2 days, a short walk out of town the first day and then up and over to the next village on the second day.

With only 6 miles planned we stopped at a cafe late in the morning to sit and relax. Soon the owner closed up shop and left. Only then did I realize that it was Sunday and probably not much would be open in the rural countryside. We decided to head up to the hostel and check in early to make sure we could purchase food. It was a beautiful place with an incredible view across the valley and we secured a room with 3 beds, unfortunately they didn’t take credit cards so we used the rest of our Euros.

There likely wouldn’t be an ATM for more cash until the next big town, at least a days walk from us, so with only 6 miles on my legs and plenty of daylight left I packed a small bag and set off to run back to Ponte de Lima. Luckily it was mostly downhill and an hour later I was back right in the mix of the fiesta.

I jogged around town from ATM to ATM, most completely empty due to the massive surge of party people, and finally found one with Euros on the outskirts of town. I tried to book an Uber or flag down a taxi but in the chaos of the festival I couldn’t so I ran back up to the albergue. Resupplied with cash I made it back just before dinner with fellow pilgrims, watched the sunset over the valley, listened to the church bells toll for 8 PM, and crawled into bed sufficiently worn out from the day.

DAY 8 – Labruja to Cedral

The albergue was stirring early in the morning. We enjoyed breakfast and coffee then set out to slowly but steadily climb the rest of the ascent. Just over an hour later we reached the summit and started the descent, happy that it wasn’t too hard of a climb.

On the downside of the mountain we stopped at the first cafe for second breakfast and continued into the valley. Around noon we rested at a snack bar and decided to try to find lunch near our target albergue. At 2 PM we arrived in town, found that the only restaurant was closed, and talked with the albergue owner. He said that nothing was open on Mondays and we could book dinner with him but it would not be until 7:30 PM.

We carried on to find another albergue in another town hopefully with food and 2 miles later checked into a very luxurious hotel and bunkhouse. Tyler and Dad shared a private room and I booked a bed in the basement dormitory. As we were paying the host added that their restaurant was also closed on Mondays, bummer. Luckily Tyler wasn’t too tired so while me and dad lounged by the pool he carried his empty pack another mile into town to pick up lunch and dinner supplies from a convenience store.

Between the ATM issues in Ponte de Lima and the rural villages being virtually closed on Sundays and Mondays I was feeling a bit frustrated, but the luxury hotel was well worth a stay. We relaxed by the pool, watched a beautiful sunset from the balcony, and the next day we’d be walking into Spain, our half way point. Life was good.

DAY 9 – Cedral to Tui

It would be under a 7 mile day and we couldn’t check into our apartment until 3 PM so we were in no hurry in the morning. A mile and a half in we pulled up to an outdoor bistro table and enjoyed coffee and fried chicken sandwiches. After breakfast we rejoined the queue of hikers heading into town.

Our first stop would be Valença, our last city in Portugal. The trail took us right into the 17th century fortress full of cafes, bars, shops, and museums. After a coffee and snack we hiked to the north side of the fortress to see the view of Tui, Spain across the Minho River. We toasted one last round of Portuguese cervejas then hiked out of the walled city.

With our check-in time approaching we set off across the bridge, entered Spain, and followed the trail to Catedral de Santa María de Tui which was right next to our apartment. While we waited we treated ourselves to some seriously rich and delicious crepes.

Deciding to plan a zero day in Tui we booked a very nice 2 bedroom apartment from AirBNB. The pictures and reviews looked great, but checking in we couldn’t believe how nice it really was. We were in an old stone building on the second floor with large windows and a balcony that opened to the street life below and had a direct view to the cathedral. This would be a perfect place to take a day off.

DAY 10 – Tui to Tui

Day 10 was relaxing. No hiking, no packing the bags, just a day of rest. Well, I worked on my laptop for several hours, caught up on emails, and didn’t shut down or leave the apartment until late in the afternoon. Come to think of it, I prefer hiking! While I was working Dad and Tyler explored town and toured the cathedral. We took advantage of having a kitchen and cooked a meal then went for a sunset stroll to find an outdoor cafe for drinks. We were in bed early, rejuvenated from a day with no hiking and ready to get back to the Camino Portuguese Route and the second half of our pilgrimage to Santiago!

DAILY DISTANCES

DAY 1 – 13. 1 Miles – Porto to Vilar do Pinheiro
DAY 2 – 6.5 Miles – Vilar do Pinheiro To Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão
DAY 3 – 8.9 Miles – Albergue de Peregrinos do Mosteiro de Vairão to Rates
DAY 4 – 10.5 Miles – Rates to Barcelos
DAY 5 – 9.9 Miles – Barcelos to São Bento
DAY 6 – 11.75 Miles – São Bento to Ponte de Lima
DAY 7 – 6.5 Miles – Ponte de Lima to Labruja
DAY 8 – 12.9 Miles – Labruja to Cedral
DAY 9 – 6.5 Miles – Cedral to Tui
DAY 10 – 0 Miles – Tui to Tui

Next Post: Hiking the Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route – Part 2

Trekking With Tractors Film

Always one for a bit of comic relief during long endurance adventures I found it fun to film each encounter we had with tractors along the Camino de Santiago Portuguese Route. Enjoy!